Here’s a walkthrough on how to disassemble and replace the LCD to an Asus EEEPC 1000H.

Why did I have to replace the LCD on my EEE? Earlier in the month I put my netbook on the floor not noticing that it slipped halfway under our reclining couch, forgetting about it I went to recline which then the frame of the couch dropped down crushing the EEE. Luckily besides the front cover getting scratched up the computer was fine but the LCD was cracked badly. The nice thing is you can get OE replacement LCD screen on EBay for all netbook’s for around $50 to $80 (depending on screen size), I ended up getting mine for $80 shipped and it came with a free screen protector.



Also use this guide if your EEE needs a good cleaning of internal components. So let’s get down to it!


What you’ll need…

-Small phillips head screwdriver set
-Flathead screwdriver or a butter knife
-Small needle nose pliers
-Wood or plastic toothpick
-Cup or dish to hold screws
-Replacement LCD screen (optional)
-Electrical tape (optional)


Tips before you start:

-TAKE YOUR DAMN TIME! Bad things happen when you rush through something like this.
-A clean, large workbench or table to work on.
-Be extra careful with the screws, there super easy to lose (I lost 2 when I was disassembling mine)
-If you have an anti-static wrist strap use it. If not just touch some bare metal to discharge yourself of any static electricity before you start tearing down your EEE.



Step one: Flip your computer over and remove battery. There two slide clips on the bottom, the one on the left is spring loaded the one on the right is lockable. First slide the right clip to the unlock position then slide the one on the left, and push up on the battery, it should slip right out.



Step two: Unscrew the two screws on the hard drive/memory access panel. (circled in red) Raise the side with the screws and slide the panel back toward the battery to remove the panel.



Step 3: Unscrew these 8 screws. (Purple arrows)
Step 4: Unscrew these 3 screws in the battery bay. (yellow arrows)



Step 5: Now it’s time to remove the keyboard, look at the crack right above the function keys, along that there are 4 small tabs that hold the keyboard down (look above the F1, F6, F10 and Num LK keys). Take either a flat head screwdriver or a butter knife and gently slide those tabs towards the screen. Once all the tabs are out of the way slowly raise the keyboard in an angle (their may be some adhesive on it) and gently slide it towards the LCD to completely remove it. (Tip: Do it slowly since the data ribbon for the keyboard can be easily damaged)



Step 6: Now we need to remove the keyboard’s data cable from the motherboard, notice the socket that the ribbon attaches to (its right above the mouse track pad). Take your toothpick and gently push up on the faces marked on the picture, it shouldn’t take much pressure at all. Once you have both in the unlocked position the ribbon will slip right out and set the keyboard aside.



Step 7: With the keyboard out of the way you’re now able to remove the top cover. Remove these 7 screws. Notice on the middle upper screw has a warranty tamper sticker, my EEE is out of warranty so I went ahead and tore it to access that screw. But if you still have warranty left on your EEE, you can also gently peel it away.

Step 8: Remove these connectors. The one in the upper left hand corner pops out, and the ribbon with the blue pull tab has the same kind of connector like the keyboard did. Again, gently push upward on the faces marked then either use your fingers or take a pair of needle nose pliers and grab onto the blue tab and gently slip the ribbon out from the connector. (Remember go easy on these ribbons, you can damage it easily!)



Step 9: Now it’s time to remove the top cover to expose the motherboard. Open your monitor so it’s completely flat, then with your fingers slowly and firmly start working your way around the laptop pulling upward on the cover.
Once the cover is off, set it aside and keep it upside down to avoid getting any foreign contaminates on the thermal pads.



Step 10: Remove the rubber pads with your fingernail, expose the 6 screws and remove.


Step 11: You’ll need to get the plastic clips loose next to completely remove the LCD cover. Lay the monitor flat, and with your finger tips gently but firmly start pulling upwards on the cover for the LCD. Start from the upper corners then work your way to the sides, and slowly start pulling up on the center. Once it’s off flip the LCD cover over onto the motherboard, be careful not to damage the mic wires that connect to the motherboard.



Step 12: Remove these 6 silver screws. (3 on each side towards the hinges)





Step 13: Raise the LCD exposing the connectors, peel away the black fabric tape that keeps the ribbon held down and the clear tape that holds the connector down into the LCD socket (the clear tape has REALLY strong adhesive). Once the clear tape is completely peeled away pull up on the connector and it should slide right out. Now you’ll be able to remove the LCD and set the EEE’s chassis aside.



Step 14: Now you have to remove LCD mounting brackets that are on each side of the screen, there 2 really small screws that hold down each bracket, remove these screws. Toss the broken LCD.



Step 15: Mount the brackets to your replacement LCD.



Step 16: Gently slide the ribbon into the connector on the new LCD. Because the adhesive is pretty much gone from the old clear tape connector hold down, take 2 strips of electrical tape to secure it on. You can reuse the cloth tape that holds the ribbon in place since it still has plenty of sticky left.


Reverse these steps to re-assemble your EEE, make sure during reassembly data ribbons are completely seated and secured into place.

Post or PM me if you have any questions!

Ahhh, I had the same thing happen with my gateway laptop last year. Except mine was crushed by camera equipment

Nice writeup

Originally Posted by jackoffwill

great tutorial on the removal... i have a question tho... i seem to be having a really hard time w/ the mouse pad ribbon... im pretty sure i might have damaged it upon trying to set it back in place...but that's simply because it wouldn't stay put in it's connector... is there a reason for that?? cause it kept sliding back out

You may have to hold it in place while you slide the lock back in. Just make sure the ribbon slides all the way into the socket before relocking it in.