After thinking more about it, it makes more sense for me to use speedlights rather than strobes for how I shoot--they are more portable and simpler, and I already have them, so I don't need to spend more money on the strobes themselves right now, just accessories.

That being said, what brands/types of lightstands are you all using? Do I need 7', 9'? Is there a special accessory to mount the flash to the lightstand?

Also looking for softbox suggestions--I know that Shawn will probably recommend the Westcott Apollo, but I'm curious if there are others that come highly recommended.

I'm not sure that I'm ready to dive into the whole strobist thing and the strobist website, so help me get my feet wet!

Shawn helped me out on alot of this stuff, lightstand wise I have a 9' manfrotto cushion.

I have impact stands, not sure on height. 2 of those softboxes we all got cheap a while back with 2 SB-24s and ebay triggers. I'd LOVE to upgrade them to 430IIs though for control from the camera, then add the triggers Eric has for when the camera can't pop them (the camera/ST-E2 is line of site I believe)...

I want those westcotts shawn has but don't have the money right now. I also really want to start playing with these more...

You should also look into the 24" Lastolite EZybox, since it's the only one that's doubly diffuse. It comes with a lightstand mount already attached. You should also consider the Photek Softlighter, which you'd need an umbrella swivel for (you should get one for each stand anyway). I also really like my Photoflex 45" Hot Silver Umbrella with Adjustable Frame. I've heard good things about their XS OctoDome too.

As for lightstands, I like my bogen nanos for my speedlights, although I do often find myself wishing that they were taller (they're 6'). Look on mpex, I think they have a decent knockoff for a bit less money. They're extremely lightweight and portable which is why I like using them for my speedlights.

Originally Posted by jacobsen1

I have impact stands, not sure on height. 2 of those softboxes we all got cheap a while back with 2 SB-24s and ebay triggers. I'd LOVE to upgrade them to 430IIs though for control from the camera, then add the triggers Eric has for when the camera can't pop them (the camera/ST-E2 is line of site I believe)...

I want those westcotts shawn has but don't have the money right now. I also really want to start playing with these more...

I was fooling around with the 580 as the master and the 430 as the slave today, and it fired pretty reliably... I do think it's line of sight, though. I'm guessing I need a hotshoe adapter of some sort to attach the flash to the lightstand, yes?

I may end up getting an ST-E2 as well--they usually have them for a decent price on KEH.

What light stand depends on you. There's no right answer. Do you want heavy duty or light and small? I have a very small LumoPro that folds down to 20" for easy travel. I also have a heavy duty one that is probably double the fold down length.

The flashes will generally mount to light stands with umbrella brackets (irionically how umbrellas and other modifiers mount too)

Originally Posted by PhatheadWRX

What light stand depends on you. There's no right answer. Do you want heavy duty or light and small? I have a very small LumoPro that folds down to 20" for easy travel. I also have a heavy duty one that is probably double the fold down length.

This is the Bogen Nano clone I was referring to. I didn't realize they cut the price down to $25 now!

Thanks for the start, guys! I will mainly be using the softbox for portraits to augment/approximate natural light--the ezybox looks pretty cool for that.

Originally Posted by Markitos

I was fooling around with the 580 as the master and the 430 as the slave today, and it fired pretty reliably... I do think it's line of sight, though. I'm guessing I need a hotshoe adapter of some sort to attach the flash to the lightstand, yes?

yeah, it'd be nice to be able to control it from the camera, however it's done...

and yes, as someone covered above, it's all in the adapter.

ugh, lighting stuff seems so complicated!

Originally Posted by Idjiit

As for stands, depends on what you're really looking for. Do you want something portable? Are you going to want to use arms for weird setups?

Portable, relatively yes. Beyond that, I have no idea yet how/if I'll use the lights. I definitely want more light and DOF control, though.

Originally Posted by Markitos

ugh, lighting stuff seems so complicated!

yeah, it's that there are even more options when you get to lights IMHO... all the parts have good name versions then ~5 knock offs, and since you can't blindly choose the one with your camera brand on it you're stuck trying to sort the crap from the good ****.

Originally Posted by jacobsen1

yeah, it's that there are even more options when you get to lights IMHO... all the parts have good name versions then ~5 knock offs, and since you can't blindly choose the one with your camera brand on it you're stuck trying to sort the crap from the good ****.

Yeah, and I'm talking only one light and a softbox to start off... I think I've found all the stuff I need now to get started.

Westcott apollo - shoot to the back of the box, the light is reflected forward, even illumination, hot spot free, efficient. What more could you ask for besides lower prices.

Actually Mark, if I were you I would get this PHOTEK SOFTLIGHTER II or THIS

I own the 60'' version and LOVE it. It is incredibly versatile and yes you can use the 60'' with speedlights.

What I love about it is that I can use it as a huge softbox or reflective umbrella or shoot through umbrella. Very, very, slick.

As for lightstands, I would get nothing less than a 9' personally.

Originally Posted by thomps6s

Actually Mark, if I were you I would get this PHOTEK SOFTLIGHTER II or THIS

Will I be able to trigger the slave with that and an ST-E2 or 580, though?

Originally Posted by Idjiit

Kind of hard to make recommendations when you don't know what you're going to be doing with it. You wanna borrow some of my stuff and see what gels?

Mebbe so... I think it will make more sense to me if I can actually use what we're talking about. Essentially, I want to be able to get shots like this:

http://www.keatleyphoto.com/blog/wp-...licis-show.jpg

Weird photo, I know... I also realize I'd need a second light with gels to light the bg.

Originally Posted by Markitos

Mebbe so... I think it will make more sense to me if I can actually use what we're talking about. Essentially, I want to be able to get shots like this:

http://www.keatleyphoto.com/blog/wp-...licis-show.jpg

Weird photo, I know... I also realize I'd need a second light with gels to light the bg.

There's a fair bit of post processing to get that look. You wouldn't need gels for the bg, just colored paper.

Originally Posted by Kilonad

There's a fair bit of post processing to get that look. You wouldn't need gels for the bg, just colored paper.

Also looks like a hard, reflective lightsource.

Originally Posted by thomps6s

Also looks like a hard, reflective lightsource.

Yup. Can't quite tell if it's bare bulb, standard reflector, gridded reflector, or a gridded beauty dish though.

I know there's post processing involved... what I'm saying is I want to be able to do more than just available light, shallow DOF portraiture. To do that, I want to start with one light, a stand, and some modifiers. A softbox seems to be a good place to start in addition to bare flash.

Originally Posted by Markitos

I know there's post processing involved... what I'm saying is I want to be able to do more than just available light, shallow DOF portraiture. To do that, I want to start with one light, a stand, and some modifiers. A softbox seems to be a good place to start in addition to bare flash.

Mark, grab one of the softlighters I linked to. It's your best bang for the buck option out there (3 modifier options in one) and the light output is awesome.

^ See question above!

I'm interested in this stuff too, what are you guys using for umbrella mounts?

I'm looking at this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...a_Adapter.html

Originally Posted by Markitos

^ See question above!

Ok, get a softbox then..

Oops. I don't know if it will trigger through the fabric, but I do know it will be similar to a softbox. You will have success or failure with both styles of modifiers.

I use cybersyncs so I don't have that issue. I also don't own a canon hotshoe flash.

One more question, what are you using for cold shoes to attach the flash to the umbrella swivel?
I saw this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...l_Purpose.html
I've heard that the manfrotto ones don't work well with 580 exs?
Do you have to tape the foot or do you just mount the flash directly to it?

Originally Posted by newbie

One more question, what are you using for cold shoes to attach the flash to the umbrella swivel?
I saw this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...l_Purpose.html
I've heard that the manfrotto ones don't work well with 580 exs?
Do you have to tape the foot or do you just mount the flash directly to it?

I use these and love em. http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,11776.html

Originally Posted by thomps6s

I use these and love em. http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,11776.html

I bought two of those and one of them broke. I like how compact they are, but the hotshoe mount is a piece of crap.

Originally Posted by newbie

I'm interested in this stuff too, what are you guys using for umbrella mounts?

I'm looking at this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...a_Adapter.html

I have one of these and it's solid but I'm not a big fan of the handle and use these http://www.amazon.com/ProMaster-Syst.../dp/B000TSUBW0 more often.

As far as stands, I don't have tons of space and don't need tall most of the time so the ones I use most are my portables

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Light...0813706&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-001B...8&sr=1-2-spell

I also have a ProMaster LS3 that I like a lot as well as Manfrotto/Profoto's 3333's. If I'm using a boom I'm definitely using one of these larger stands.

I have the Westcott Apollo 60", RL3 and Mini as well as an old Photek Softlighter.

In the house I used to leave the Apollo Mini and RL3 setup on the small portable stands, compact and light. If you plan on shooting outside at all you'll also need to pick up some sandbags or weights, that's why I say used to, I had the RL3 outside and turned to grab the weight to put on it and a gust of wind blew it over pretty hard and bent the frame... 60" is too big to leave setup so I leave the Softlighter setup indoors with the mini.

I shoot Nikon but with the CLS I do not have an issue triggering them when they are in the Westcott's or Photek indoors, outdoors it depends on the light and line of sight.

Okay, studio strobe people--do you generally use a lightmeter? Are there any that are cheapish? Or do you just chimp the histogram and adjust?

Originally Posted by Markitos

Okay, studio strobe people--do you generally use a lightmeter? Are there any that are cheapish? Or do you just chimp the histogram and adjust?

Chimp it. If you get Cybersyncs, spring for the transmitter with the built in light meter.

yeah, chimp it. I HAVE a lightmeter (sekonic somethingorother) from when I was in school shooting film (it was a studio 101 requirement) but it wants sync cords to really work right. It was great back then because that's how we used the schools lights, but now it's easier to stab in the dark, pop a shot and chimp it...

Originally Posted by jacobsen1

yeah, chimp it. I HAVE a lightmeter (sekonic somethingorother) from when I was in school shooting film (it was a studio 101 requirement) but it wants sync cords to really work right. It was great back then because that's how we used the schools lights, but now it's easier to stab in the dark, pop a shot and chimp it...

is there any particular good starting point, or will I just figure all this **** out?

Originally Posted by Markitos

is there any particular good starting point, or will I just figure all this **** out?

What light are you getting? An ab800?

Start at ISO100 - F/5.6 - light 45 degrees to subject and a few feet away. Take a shot. Too bright? Stop down or decrease power. too dark, open up or increase power. If it isn't too bright or too dark, you should be able to get a damn good guestimate for the change needed.

Originally Posted by thomps6s

What light are you getting? An ab800?

Start at ISO100 - F/5.6 - light 45 degrees to subject and a few feet away. Take a shot. Too bright? Stop down or decrease power. too dark, open up or increase power. If it isn't too bright or too dark, you should be able to get a damn good guestimate for the change needed.

k, that's what I figured. Sorry for the n00b questions, but this will be a whole new world for me, and I'm looking forward to it.

Originally Posted by Markitos

k, that's what I figured. Sorry for the n00b questions, but this will be a whole new world for me, and I'm looking forward to it.

No need to be sorry man, you have to start somewhere. I think you will pick it up fairly quickly.

Originally Posted by Markitos

is there any particular good starting point, or will I just figure all this **** out?

you'll figure it out. Remember, once you go past sync speed you get black bars, below sync speed and you're all set shutter wise assuming your ambient isn't crazy bright or you're not going super slow... From there you only have 2 controls that adjust light, ISO and aperture. As shawn said, start at ~100 and ~f5.6. Maybe a tad bigger aperture, but this all depends on the lights...

You really have THREE adjustments though, ISO, aperture, and subject to light distance. Move your lights in/out to get the look you want FIRST, then adjust the other 2. Try to leave the ISO at 100, and if you want/need less DOF, dial the aperture open and the power down. It seems like it'd be impossible to sort out, but it's actually really easy once you switch to M and dial it in.

• light power/distance
• aperture
• ISO

Originally Posted by Markitos

k, that's what I figured. Sorry for the n00b questions, but this will be a whole new world for me, and I'm looking forward to it.

yeah, dude, I know just enough to get me into trouble.

the best part about something like the TX meet is we all had the same settings. You'd just pass the transmitter from camera to camera so YOU'D pop the lights. We'd all share settings on a new setup too, so if you wanted to dial it in you could go first, if you were shy you could go second and ask. Helps the learning process a ton to ask lots of question. I suck at getting creative, but I can do the math easy enough.

Originally Posted by Markitos

Okay, studio strobe people--do you generally use a lightmeter? Are there any that are cheapish? Or do you just chimp the histogram and adjust?

both. depends on what im doing and if i think i can guess it pretty well to begin with. i use a light meter when i remember to or i think the balance of light will be difficult and have the time. i have a sekonic 258 i think. i picked it up used for $200. it really helped me alot once i got it.

if you are jacking around with some AB's indoor start with iso 100, 1/200th, and f/8. strobes have alot of power. indoors i doubt you ever need more than 1/4 power unless you have a lot of room. you'll likely find it harder to shoot at large apertures if you want to. stopped down is hella easy since the strobes pack a big punch indoors.

Yeah, one of the main reasons I opted for a strobe was so that I could do some stopped down portraits... I know I'm generally a wide-open guy, especially with portraits, but I want to try some other stuff as well. Mostly I want to add some versatility--both in what I can offer and what I know how to do. Learning how to use and modify light is a huge part of photography. I think I've got the natural light stuff figured out for the most part, but I want more control and more creative options.

^ I'm in the same boat. Plus, if you can shoot stopped down you can drop the power and shoot wide open as well.

What'd you end up buying Mark?

Originally Posted by Idjiit

That's not true. Flashes don't have an infinite power range between no power and max power - one of the defining characteristics of the different flash options is how much control you have. That's why not everyone rushes out and buys a flash head with 15 kagillion watts - that's going to limit how you can shoot. If you're not using a lot of light modification you can easily end up in a situation where you have to use ND filter to use wider apertures. This is part of the reason I prefer to use Speedlights - they're generally "underpowered" and the good ones have a really broad operating range.

Good points. I think I will end up experimenting with speedlights as well for the reasons you mention, but I wanted to try out strobes as well. And no, Sam, I haven't forgotten your offer. Once I get a handle on one light, I will probably take you up on your offer and experiment with multiples.

And Ben, I ended up getting on AB800, a softbox, a receiver and a trigger. Seemed like a good place to start.

nice, John's? And which transmitter/receiver?