Same basic rules apply from my Engagement shoot thread.

These are a bit easier in that, your dealing with a single subject who generally is comfortable around the camera. From a photographer stand point, this allows you to concentrate on your end, the lighting, scenery, ect and let the model do the posing. Generally speaking a model should know his/her GOOD angles. Not always the case, but for the most part it should make your job a bit easier.

As always, Lighting > Background
Look for both!



My general style for these shoots, is choosing a general location and usually do a walking route around the area. I look for both lighting and color contrasts compared to the models attire.



Once youve found your perfect little spot, search within there to find a couple areas where you feel the photos can work. Remember what the subject is, the model. NOT the scenery. Background plays an important role, but its not meant to distract or take away from your subject, its supposed to support and make your subject POP.



I use wide apertures for the most part, I rarely go above f4 but thats personal preference. As far as your shooting goes, Do what works for you. Shooting wide open has benefits as well as disadvantages. Focus points wide open or 2.8 and faster are crucial as you can loose the whole photograph.

Part 2 with focus, Whats the focus point... well your the photographer, you decide on that. As far as portraits go, the focus point should be on the subjects eyes 100% of the time IMO.


What happens if you get stuck with harsh sun?
well... use it! Not all direct sun is bad and can be very useful, you can get a very natural rim light around the hair of the subject and it can give them that extra pop! Watch your histogram and your meter or you could wind up way left or way right.



And remember, practice is the best way to learn...
some more samples, Ask Qs as always, im sure im forgetting something.

Thanks for the tutorial Matt

seriously, ask questions if you have any, I know im missing stuff but had to run to work.

I plan to. Just that I'm in class right now and just went through the entire tutorial in a minute.

How do you meter in harsh light? What metering setting? (I'm not familiar with these, because I'm an idiot....I'm referring to partial metering, etc... [()] looks like that?)

I'm putting myself out here to look like an idiot because I haven't looked at the capabilities of different metering types.

Originally Posted by Stoopid_Girl

I'm putting myself out here to look like an idiot

Must.resist.temptation



Seriously though, the light you capture looks perfect every time. Is it a lot of PP or do you pay a lot of attention with the light during the shoot?

Originally Posted by subimatt

seriously, ask questions if you have any, I know im missing stuff but had to run to work.

Do you have any nudes of the chick in the last pic?


What? You said ask...

Originally Posted by s7khan

Must.resist.temptation



Seriously though, the light you capture looks perfect every time. Is it a lot of PP or do you pay a lot of attention with the light during the shoot?

That reminds me, I need to figure out how to either calibrate my Rebel screen or calibrate (which is a given) my computer monitor. My Rebel shows up a LOT brighter than my monitors...it's hard to gauge without looking at the histogram. When I actually look at it, I try to get that archish looking thing, but sometimes that doesn't happen. I need to learn more about lighting, period

Originally Posted by Stoopid_Girl

That reminds me, I need to figure out how to either calibrate my Rebel screen or calibrate (which is a given) my computer monitor. My Rebel shows up a LOT brighter than my monitors...it's hard to gauge without looking at the histogram. When I actually look at it, I try to get that archish looking thing, but sometimes that doesn't happen. I need to learn more about lighting, period

just turn down the LCD brightness on the camera.

as far as metering goes, i always use partial, and always in the center.

this is because i almost never shoot in anything but manual mode. so my process is:
1) point center at subject
2) check meter
3) adjust aperture/shutter/iso as needed
4) focus using rear *
5) recompose as needed
6) shoot

once i've dialled in 1, 2, 3, then i rarely have to revisit those steps unless there is a huge change in illumination.

i use the center af point almost exclusively because both my heavily-used lenses are f/2.8, which allows the 20d to use a high precision cross-type af sensor (said to be ~3x more accurate than the non high precision) which is only active on f/2.8 and faster lenses.

even if you're using a body without a high precision af sensor, the center af point is usually the only one that's a cross-type, meaning it uses both x and y axes to determine best focus.

i despise the auto focus point selection and never use it. if the 20d had a spot meter mode i'd use that to meter for my subject, but it doesn't.

that's my process, but remember it's up to you to find what works best. this method would not work very well at all for sports shooting on a partially shady field, for example.

Originally Posted by ride5000

just turn down the LCD brightness on the camera.

: picard:

tbert, I love your input!


Thanks Ken!

Never gauge exposure off the camera LCD, Check the histogram to check exposure. I go between partial and spot metering. Always use center AF point and recompose.

Originally Posted by subimatt

Always use center AF point and recompose.

Interesting. I would not have guessed this.

Originally Posted by thomps6s

Interesting. I would not have guessed this.

whys that? just curious.

Not sure, i just figured you would take advantage of the AF points. Are you shooting manual?
Also, working at Wide Open apertures I would expect to miss the focus by focusing and re-composing, but maybe not if the subjects are far enough away?

Originally Posted by thomps6s

Not sure, i just figured you would take advantage of the AF points. Are you shooting manual?
Also, working at Wide Open apertures I would expect to miss the focus by focusing and re-composing, but maybe not if the subjects are far enough away?

95% Id say I shoot in av. the rest in M.
never had issue with focus and recompose even wide open. I just do it that way since its much faster. Weddings alot of times you need to get the shot, no time to play with the controller device to get side points. Back button focus and shutter AE lock is how I have all my cameras setup.

Originally Posted by subimatt

Always use center AF point and recompose.

Whyssat?

Originally Posted by Stoopid_Girl

Whyssat?

I choose the af point my camera uses, the center one. I focus with that point, then recompose my shot before taking it.

Originally Posted by subimatt

Back button focus and shutter AE lock is how I have all my cameras setup.

Hmm, interesting. I can see why you (and Ken) would want this setup. I've always just used the default settings.

I wonder how that affects using a remote shutter release (i.e., will half-press engage AF lock, or AE lock)? I'm going to check right now.

EDIT: Bummer. It engages AE lock, not AF.


-A

again, iirc, in all the xxd series canons, there's only one high precision cross type, and that's the middle. if you've got 2.8 lenses or faster, that's a REALLY good reason to use only that point. the 40d for example has 9 cross type, 1 HP cross type (center).

i BELIEVE the 5ds both have the same setup: 1 cross in th center which is hp.

it's only when you get to the 1 series that you have multiple high precision cross type sensors.

i also believe that the rebels do not have any high precision sensors, but the only cross type is the center.



fwiw
ken

Originally Posted by Stoopid_Girl

How do you meter in harsh light? What metering setting? (I'm not familiar with these, because I'm an idiot....I'm referring to partial metering, etc... [()] looks like that?)

I'm putting myself out here to look like an idiot because I haven't looked at the capabilities of different metering types.

Ill sometimes go to spot, meter the face, test shoot, check histogram and adjust from there. Im fairly comfortable being able to judge the exposure why watching the shutter speeds vary. This is all just the way I shoot however.

Originally Posted by ride5000

again, iirc, in all the xxd series canons, there's only one high precision cross type, and that's the middle. if you've got 2.8 lenses or faster, that's a REALLY good reason to use only that point. the 40d for example has 9 cross type, 1 HP cross type (center).

i BELIEVE the 5ds both have the same setup: 1 cross in th center which is hp.

it's only when you get to the 1 series that you have multiple high precision cross type sensors.

i also believe that the rebels do not have any high precision sensors, but the only cross type is the center.



fwiw
ken

another reason why I use center point, it is the most accurate in my cameras and helps when shooting with a minimal dof.

I should add that if anyone is in the area and would like to shoot with me at some point, let me know.

I was soo off my game yesterday while shooting my friend's son's 3 year pics. I started wanting to light him with the softbox but he got tired of it right away which sucks because I was making some nice light. So I decided to just follow him around and snap away, I was switching between spot metering, evaluative, AV and manual and was just borking everything. The light was harsh and I couldn't get anything right. I am thoroughly disappointed in the images and in myself.

WHo comes up with the poses? The model, you or a collaboration? While I think I can take decent pictures, it's guiding the model that I'm uncertain aboot

It's really nice when the model naturally poses, hopefully you'll see this next week There are tons of diff models we'll be working with and I'm hoping at least a few of them are natural at it.

Some you have to pose, and even the ones that know how to pose you have to tweak (life if an arm is in the way of lighting and whatnot because they are thinking poses not lighting like us)

I guess based off my frustrations response above Caitlyn's, the question i wanted to ask is "Do you look for open shade, preferably?"

I always looks for open shade to shoot in, and if there is none, subjects back to the sun. but you might get some flare

Harsh lighting shawn, Im always on spot metering with AV, most times ill get a good meter, then over to manual it goes.

Originally Posted by thomps6s

I guess based off my frustrations response above Caitlyn's, the question i wanted to ask is "Do you look for open shade, preferably?"

oopsy! Didn't meant o bury ya!

Originally Posted by thomps6s

I am thoroughly disappointed in the images and in myself.

you should be. you suck.

Originally Posted by s7khan

WHo comes up with the poses? The model, you or a collaboration? While I think I can take decent pictures, it's guiding the model that I'm uncertain aboot

Depends, I prefer to let the models do the posing, If I need to add some direction I will. It depends on the purpose of the shoot.

I want a stuffed Skipper!

Anyway, Well the metering mode depends on the shooting conditions. Spots going to give you a more precise exposure on what you are metering, its especially helpful in bright sun or large areas of light/ dark where its easier to be thrown. I always shoot natural light, I dont like the fill flash work, although it has its place. It really depends on your shooting style/ look your are looking to obtain.

Originally Posted by VicRSTi

Do you have any input on when/how you use your flash for these type of shots? Did you use any fill flash for your harsh sunlight shot?

Nope, no flash. I rarely use them at weddings. Not a fan of the look.

I read everywhere to shoot Outdoor Portraits at "Wide open" apertures. Why is this? If it is Sunny and there is enough light, why not stop down for extra DOF?

backgrounds are distracting? Plus, faster shutters are good for freezing action (people/kids moving) and avoiding lens/camera shake?

but yeah, I wouldn't always shoot at 1.2 just because I had it or anything....

Most likely for the background distraction, or the extra subject pop. I like the look on the images which is why I shoot wide open.

Originally Posted by jacobsen1

but yeah, I wouldn't always shoot at 1.2 just because I had it or anything....

So what's your preferred len(s)? (on a crop body) Looking at exif these range from 35mm to 80mm.

On the crop and on the 5d I use 50mm alot. 85 more on the 5d, but still use the 50 primarily.

Depends in the shoot, location, and effect Im going for in the photo. But if I only had to take one lens with me on these shoots, it would be a 50mm.

Originally Posted by subimatt

On the crop and on the 5d I use 50L, well because it's the 50L...

fixed.

Matt, do you have any go to location types? as in do you prefer walls/architecture/buildings as backgrounds? or semi shady wooded/park areas?

do you have any suggestions for the type of location that a newb could look for to increase the likelihood of location success?

Originally Posted by danm

Matt, do you have any go to location types? as in do you prefer walls/architecture/buildings as backgrounds? or semi shady wooded/park areas?

do you have any suggestions for the type of location that a newb could look for to increase the likelihood of location success?

I know you asked Matt, but I look for anything with background interest whether it is a park with nice plants/flowers/bushes or Brick walls, industrial, or solid color backgrounds and if shooting in daylight I try to find open shade areas. Areas that are still getting light, but it is even lighting. Think of the light in between two tall buildings during the day, there is light in there, it is even and it isn't bright/harsh.