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  1. #1
    Worn out shutter PhatheadWRX's Avatar
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    Default  Macros  
      
      

    I've always loved macro shots. Over the past few years, I've perfected my technique to get very consistent, great, easy macro shots. If you are interested in my progression, check out my flickr macro set.

    This technique will help you get sharp close-ups with very vibrant colors. Some samples:










    My rig:
    Canon 40D
    Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
    Canon 430EX
    DIY Lumiquest Bounce (made from craft foam)
    The brands and models are not important, just that you have the functions



    Goal: You want to expose the subject (flower, bug, etc) with the flash. You want to underexpose the ambient background, so they colors are vibrant. If you underexpose the background and correctly or slightly overexpose the subject, then the subject is going to "pop" off the bg. Also, the colors are going to be stunning.

    It's exactly like taking a high class portrait with lots of off camera lighting, only on a smaller scale.

    How it's done:
    1) 430EX in ETTL. Flash head at 45 deg. I generally dial in +1 FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation)
    2) 40D generally in Av*
    3) I set ISO to 200 or 400
    4) Be sure you have enough DOF. I generally start at f/8 with these shots and move up (f/11+) if needed. Remember the closer you are, the less DOF.
    4) For fast moving subjects, I like AI Servo focus and I use higher fps (but remember the flash has to catch up
    5) CHIMP!!! Don't be scared. You're trying to balance two light sources (flash and ambient) for a great shot you need to be sure both are working how you want them to be.

    * I set my custom function for "flash sync speed in Av" as 1/250"", not auto, so when I shoot in Av with flash, I'm shooting 1/250" shutter.

    Making it easy: I find macros with flash are way easier than without.
    1) You generally do not have to worry about shutter speeds (only for ambient light)
    2) You can use lower ISOs = less noise

    Troubleshooting:
    Subject underexposed: dial up FEC
    Subject overexposed: dial down FEC
    Background overexposed:
    1) In Av, dial down EC (camera exposure compensation) or
    2) Lower ISO or
    3) Use M mode, lower shutter speed (less than 1/250")
    Background underexposed:
    1) In Av, dial up EC (camera exposure compensation) or
    2) Raise ISO or
    3) Use M mode, raise shutter speed and turn flash HSS (high speed sync) on

    Technical (why it works well):
    The importance of the DIY bounce is twofold: 1) Softness. The size of the foam turns your flash into a larger perceived light source (huge source relative to your subject). Larger perceived light sources = softer light = easy shadows. Shooting flash off of white foam creates diffused light, not direct reflections like silver metal. Look back at the examples and see how the shadows just fade away instead of being sharp?

    2) Direction. The flash head is at 45 degrees. The DIY bounce does bend forward also, so the flat foam surface is almost parallel to the lens. When the light bounces off the foam, it goes DOWN onto the subject. It's an off axis light. This creates some shadows, depth, and a 3D look. However, the shadows are not too dark because of the large light source is so diffused.

    On axis light (aka a ring light) does an amazing job of fill light, but does not give depth.

    Get shooting and good luck!!!

    Last edited by PhatheadWRX; 06-09-2010 at 09:08 PM.
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  2. #2
    Pro WRXJIM's Avatar
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    Great, simple write up. Thanks mate.

    Off to find some bugs

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    Great write up French! I love your macro work.
    Patrick

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    Pro Glass Man's Avatar
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    Yeah, great write up. While I don't have a macro lens, I'd like to make a DIY bounce like you - what'd you use for glue?
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    Craig you can get a reversing kit or some extension tubes instead of having a "macro" lens.
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  6. #6
    Pro JERM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatheadWRX View Post
    4) For fast moving subjects, I like AI Servo focus
    Oh, you mean there's auto-focus macro lenses? I should look into that...

    Great write-up, nice work!

  7. #7
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    Can't wait to try this out when my tubes get in..

  8. #8
    Pro Idjiit's Avatar
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    Great intro, dude.

    Quote Originally Posted by PhatheadWRX View Post
    Troubleshooting:
    Subject underexposed: dial up FEC
    Subject overexposed: dial down FEC
    Background overexposed:
    1) In Av, dial down EC (camera exposure compensation) or
    2) Lower ISO or
    3) Use M mode, lower shutter speed (less than 1/250")
    Background underexposed:
    1) In Av, dial up EC (camera exposure compensation) or
    2) Raise ISO or
    3) Use M mode, raise shutter speed and turn flash HSS (high speed sync) on
    Remember that this advice is only relevant to Canon's system. Nikon shooters need to remember that EC adjusts both ambient and flash power, so when you change it you're changing the foreground and background at the same time. In Canon's system, EC and FEC are independent of each other, in Nikon's system FEC is relative to EC.

  9. #9
    the anti-surl thechickencow's Avatar
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    That's real nice, and I like that bounce card!

  10. #10
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    Nice, good advice, French!

    I just used some of those tips to shoot a little snail. I'll pop that into sharing.
    --Jeff ||500px||gear||My Site
    Quote Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
    your camera takes nice pictures!

  11. #11
    Working Alejo_NIN's Avatar
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    subbin for awesomeness

  12. #12
    Worn out shutter PhatheadWRX's Avatar
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    Thanks for the Nikon specific info, Sam.
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  13. #13
    cheesehead jacobsen1's Avatar
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    Nice French, I'll make this an article Monday AM.
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  14. #14
    Pro Idjiit's Avatar
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    No prob, French.

    Interesting sidenote - Olympus' software on the PEN series (and I believe their 4/3 cameras as well) allows you to control the behavior of the EC/FEC relationship, so you can have it emulate the Canon or Nikon behavior. Kinda cool to give you the choice if you're using a PEN as a second camera and are coming from one dSLR or the other.

  15. #15
    cheesehead jacobsen1's Avatar
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    So Sam, with a no ink you're stuck with manual if you need to adjust that ratio?
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  16. #16
    Pro Idjiit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen1 View Post
    So Sam, with a no ink you're stuck with manual if you need to adjust that ratio?
    Wha?

  17. #17
    cheesehead jacobsen1's Avatar
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    iPad auto correction FTL... W/o being able to use FEC w/o EC going with it, on a noink, are we stuck with manual at that point?
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  18. #18
    Pro Idjiit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen1 View Post
    iPad auto correction FTL... W/o being able to use FEC w/o EC going with it, on a noink, are we stuck with manual at that point?
    Errr... no. It just means that FEC is relative to EC. It's just a difference in mindset. With Canon you can just treat the ambient and FEC as two separate exposures. With Nikon you regard them as related to each other. The Nikon system is nice because if you're doing something like event photography you can really regard FEC as ratio control - FEC defines the ratio of Flash to ambient. Get that setup, and then use EC to control the overall exposure.

    Let's take a real example. You're shooting a wedding. You're shooting the bride's party, all the girl's are wearing very light pink dresses. You're shooting in AV, set EC to -2/3 to darken the background a bit, and set FEC to +1 to compensate for the overwhelmingly light foreground. You shoot away, everything's cool - the girls are popping, the background is receding without looking too obviously "flashy".

    Now the groom's party comes in, all the guys are wearing tuxedos. Up to this point the Canon and Nikon system are roughly the same (the FEC would probably already be a little different, but ignore that for the moment), but now as you have to make changes to compensate for the drastic change in foreground you do different things on Canon vs. Nikon.

    Canon
    • You have to adjust EC from -2/3 down to say -1 and 2/3
    • You have to adjust FEC from +1 FEC to 0 FEC

    Nikon
    • You just turn EC down from -2/3 to -1 and 2/3
    • You do /nothing/ to FEC, since it is "invisibly" turned down already by the EC adjustment

    The Nikon is simpler in this example, in my opinion.

  19. #19
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    now this is tight stuff. I likes...

    do you think foil on the foam board would do enough to help here as well to increase the reflection. like wrinkled up foil? I know I've seen in stores and such, it's like a plastic backed foil or something that's textured or something. I just don't remember what it was for.
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  20. #20
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    wasn't there an image of your foamies bounce in this thread? did you erase that one from your flickr?
    --Bone | FSS | flickr | Gear list | I'll add more links later...

  21. #21
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    I just want to say thank you for this thread. I've been trying to use these techniques (as well as my homemade bounce) for a little bit now and have been really blowwn away by my results (see flickr link in sig if anyone is interested). Since I've been getting these results I'm getting more hooked on shooting macros, next up is looking for bugs and insects to try to shoot, I'm guessing they'll be much more difficult than stationary flowers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bone View Post
    now this is tight stuff. I likes...

    do you think foil on the foam board would do enough to help here as well to increase the reflection. like wrinkled up foil? I know I've seen in stores and such, it's like a plastic backed foil or something that's textured or something. I just don't remember what it was for.
    I know this is not directed to me but I just thought I'd chime in... the point of the white foam is that it creates a nice soft reflection, if you use foil you'll get a bit harsher reflection which may not work as well. With that being said, by all means give it a try b/c I'm really not an expert on this at all (far from).
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  22. #22
    Worn out shutter PhatheadWRX's Avatar
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    Bone, the pic of the reflector is back. And start is correct. Silver will work, it will just be more direct (less diffuse) light.

    Start, glad it helps. Don't forget the same theories apply to other shots too.

    The trick to bugs is to get lower and move in slowly. Some will spook, some won't. Sometimes the flash will make flies take off, but the generally land near the same area.
    Last edited by PhatheadWRX; 06-09-2010 at 09:18 PM.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatheadWRX View Post
    Bone, the pic of the reflector is back. And start is correct. Silver will work, it will just be more direct (less diffuse) light.

    Start, glad it helps. Don't forget the same theories apply to other shots too.

    The trick to bugs is to get lower and move in slowly. Some will spook, some won't. Sometimes the flash will make flies take off, but the generally land near the same area.
    thanks, I like your pattern a little more than what I did. I'll see if I can't adapt yours and my ideas for a little different setup. I have a crap load of foam to work with for all kinds of testing. Thanks for re-uping that photo.
    --Bone | FSS | flickr | Gear list | I'll add more links later...

  24. #24
    Pro Reed Goodwin's Avatar
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    Nice write-up! I've been meaning to get a flash/diffuser to make macros easier...
    Reed

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