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Can we get this one edited too? mods?Originally Posted by KC
You know me. Or at least... thought you did.... dawg.
I can't believe my post got edited?
Can't understand the sarcasm, or didn't know me that well? Come on! That 'rock like Ken Block' was one of my finest!
--kC
Dick.
---
Jason | flickr
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the kit is in, but i gotta get it powdercoated before i install it.
what say you nsop?
boring black?
cusco blue?
perrin red?
swift gold?
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got propane
**** YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!
its off finally =)
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cusco blue! unless you're pimping, then you'd have to go with swift gold of course.
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started powdercoating today
powdercoat prep
i picked red because im getting megan coilovers and racing beat swaybars which are all red
my homie ben doing the powdercoating
bake for 15min at 400degrees
let it cure for a few hours
looks nice and even and shiny, pictures dont do justice for how nice the finish is
this is all i finished today, the bigger pieces ill do tomorrow
diff subframe half
trans subframe
bump steer kit spacers and tie rods
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damn it looks like its going to take a week or 2 before i can finish the other 2 frames. see **** you thread
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16 year old grime on my calipers not fun
cleaned, polished, powdercoated, looks a hell of a lot better
i bought a rebuild kit to replace the seals and dustboots, cost me 25$ for the kit. i shoulda put it in before powdercoating but didnt notice the condition untill i removed the pads
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actually its better to do after you powder coat cause often the process melts or damages the seals anyway.
-Tim B
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+1
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Doesn't brakes get hotter than 400degrees though?
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havnt updated this in awhile. i got the subframe painted, when i went to install it i came across a problem...
the subframe in anchored by 8 points. 2 guides and 4 bolts hold up the front, and 2 bolts go into the chassi and hold in the rear. when i test fit everything went in, but i didnt mount it in all the way and i should have checked that. i only put in a few threads of the bolt in the rear and it grabbed and figured it was ok.
when i went to install it after powder coating last weekend, everything bolts up fine except ONE bolt. the bolt goes in the hole and starts to thread but the frame is angling the bolt slightly. i tried to position it so there is still as much free play in the bolt holes before tightening everything up completely and halfway through this bolt decides to not go in all the way. long story short i stripped some of the threads on the chassi.
its been a nightmare trying to find an m12 1.25 thread repair kit. i couldnt find one locally after literally visiting and calling 20 stores, so i had to order one online.
45$ shipped
the kit requires to drill out the bad threads and put in a "permacoil" which is said to be 50% stronger than the origional. for 45$ you think it would come with the drill bit. nope it did not. it requires a 31/64 drill bit which again i could NOT FIND. no where i know sells it seperately, my kit nor none of my friends have a 31/64 drill bit. i didnt want to order it so i purchased another kit that had one. its the smallest drill bit kit i could find that has the bit in it and it cost me 35$ for a set of 25 bits. oh and 24 of the 25 bits overlap my existing kit, go figure.
the drill bit does not taper down, and my 80$ drill does not have a removable chuck, and it does not support a drill bit of this size. so i will have to see if a friend has a drill that can support a 1/2 inch drill bit, if not ill have to buy one that does and then return it.
back to the subframe...i called the guy who made the kit and got the measurements of all the bolt holes. looks like my kit has that hole off by 3/16" of an inch, each hole is suppose to have 3/16th of an inch free play and none of my holes have that, hence the problem. this confirms that the dissallignment is not caused by my car being hit, but that he ****ed up. the kit cost 1650$, an error like this shouldnt happen.
he offered to pay shipping both ways to redrill the hole(theres a 1/3 spacer sandwiched between two 1/8 sheets of metal) i told him ill just drill it out and he can give me a discount on other parts i need later. but man, i just powdercoated this thing and i gotta drill it up.
so tonight im going to rethread that chassi hole and hope it works, if not i dont know where this project is going to go. the entire rear driver side corner is held in by this one hole, it has to be strong and hold the v8, so i dont want it half assed.
wish me luck
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tap die and inserts to repair stripped threads
repaired
the bitch is in! bolt on v8 here i come
feels good to get that in already
also picked up some spherical bearing endlinks to replace my bent ones in the front
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seriously. whats worse is that out of the only 3 vendors who make this, this guy is HIGHLY recommended for quality and fitment. it seems that i will be the 1st to have issues. my luck. heres a picture of the corner i had to drill out. it had to be the thickest corner to cut out
right bolt
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just put my order in for a full set of superpro bushings
these things are made in aussie and shipped by tien. they are backordered by all vendors for 4-6 weeks! my subframe guy had a new box laying around and sold them to me
the kit includes bushings for:
front and rear upper and lower control arms
front and rear lateral links
front and rear swaybars
power steering rack
front and rear strut mounts
diff bushings
that should make her feel like a new car, if not better than. i was going to go with a derlin bushing but i found out that they are way too much for street use. so stiff that wheel bearings and allignment will go every year or sooner, and it would sound like a 19th century wooden ship when turning. the superpros get high reviews for street and track use though.
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Don't do it...you will not want to work on it anymore
I am back to wrenching on the 510 talked Cat out of selling it...so I might post up a project thread too
-Tim B
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Yea I researched before I sold my STI what it would cost and what I was looking at. I put it out on excel and made a budget to get me V8 ready by tax season.Don't do it...you will not want to work on it anymore
I am back to wrenching on the 510 talked Cat out of selling it...so I might post up a project thread too
So far I've spent 5.6k on the car and I'm current with my budget plan. I made 1.5k selling the sti and I have 450$ in unforseen expenses (tools, thread repair, brake rebuild) I've allowed 800 to unforseen stuff. factor that in and I only really spent ~$4550
I've got to buy a radiator kit, intake, motor mounts, tach correction, and tires before tax season. I'm using the money I would had to use on a car payment and insurance and the remaining on my gas allowance so i don't feel the project financially. I'll start feeling the savings once I get running maybe. I still have to convert my ac, powersteering, paint and coilovers, but they are not things I need to rush to get.
I'm hoping to get 1k in cash for my birthday and Christmas from doctors(coworkers) and relatives, and keep the total project below 10k to get it running. We all know it's an unlimited budget after that, just don't tell Liz
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superpros come in today, meanwhile giving the double wishbone a good cleaning before punching out the bushing and installing the new ones.
wirewheel and simple green do wonders to clean old grim off of the A arms. also 1" steel bars help get creative to punch out some of the bearings
putting my SAE sockets to use finally!
unused SAE socket=free?
mazda specialty bushing punch out guide $434.20 :wow: i didnt believe it, so i know you guys wont either. so i provide the part number
PN 49 F034 2A0
ok so the mazda tool doesnt require a press. but you still have to buy a vice and you have to use socket tools and punch them out using your own strength. i could by a 10 ton harbor freight press for $109, or even a 20 ton press(like the one shown above) for $200. thats still half the price of the mazda tool only the mazda tool only gets used every time i need to change bushings (100,000 miles?) the press can be used for a ton of other things!
anyway, i have to change the blasting material and i need to wire brushes so i doubt ill get done by the time the bushings arrive, so thats it for now
Last edited by marcus.raw; 11-20-2009 at 11:57 AM.
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another good thing for cleaning grime off parts like that is get a tupperware tub big enough for the part and let it soak in B12-Chemtool
Warning: put this in a well ventilated area the stuff is pretty strong but after its done you can just about clean it off with a rag and a little wire brush to get the nooks and crannys.
-Tim B
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I've only used sand up to this point but someone was telling me about Soda Blasting?... have you tried that It is supose to be less harsh and prevent pings (like you get with bead blasting) and scoring (like you get with sand blasting light sheetmetal parts.
-Tim B
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i havnt tried soda yet ill look into it.
for light cleaning i use corn lol, glass beads(not crushed) works better, but i reserve that for powdercoat prep.
if you got wanna prep for exterior paint, id say use plastic like urea, acrylic, polyester and melamine. works well for paint strip and a smooth finish. i dont have a cabinet big enough for body pannels though so ive only tried it on mirrors, gas doors, handles etc
i hate sand. maybe its just the sand that i use but it attaches and stays into the finish. i can never seem to get 100% of it out of the nooks and crannies
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so i fondled 9 bags of bushings that just came inhey you would too, they are 60$ a bag
28 bushings 22 crush tubes and 9 tubes of lube(oh yea!)
going to finish the front up, havnt started on the rear at all yet because there is not enough weight in the front to lift the rear
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front control arms are still getting dressed up. meanwhile i got some work in this turkey day morning by cleaning up the steering rack and installing it with the new bushings and bump steer
old vs new bushings
cleaned/painted mounts
bumpsteer/tie rods installed
bushings installed on cleaned/painted rack
installed onto new subframe with ls2 spacers
routed for manual for now, will do power steering after i get her running
done, now time to get fat on thanks giving!
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Looking good, it is going to look like a new car under there by the time you are done.
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Awesome.
Subscribe.
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the rx7 isnt getting much attention. the guy thats pressing the bushing out and installing the new ones is lagging pretty bad. he had them a week before thanksgiving. he got 4 new bushings in, hes got 8 more to go, and he hasnt bead blasted anything yet...urgh the price you pay for hookups.
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finally got the control arms back! he didnt put them through a bead blaster so i had to clean them myself
heres a pic of how they came back, the new bushings look good!
gave them a good cleaning
fresh bushings and boots and grease!
bushings are night and day so this should make it feel way better than when the car was brand new. i tried installing them last night and i will have to 2 man the lowers. its pretty tight in the samberg kit so it will take some good convincing. prob wont happen untill a week after new years, going to be pretty busy this month, urgh
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+1 I'm loving seeing the progress.
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ok i squeezed some work in the seven during xmas break. i got the UCA and LCA in and it was not easy. lining them up made it look like the kit was off by 1/2 an inch, but my buddy said they needed convincing, so he convinced them by a combination of bicycle kicks, and using a floor jack and sledge and a thick coat of curse words.
once i got them in to fit, lining them up to the bolt holes was another task. i believe its due to the superpro bushings as they are stiff, they make it hard to move these around.
they are in! got them in on both sides. the UCA was not so bad but still pretty tough. its a puzzle system to get the hub/shock/tie rod in, and i did not figure it out. this is close, but the strut bolts dont line up at the top. im too tired to try and twist it in. on the other side i just have the control arms in and nothing else. still have to install the endlinks, sway bar and calipers and the front suspension is done!
the camber and toe are WAY off as i did not measure anything when i removed the stock stuff. this thing will need an alignment real bad. but i did take advantage of the added camber reach thanks to the samberg kit.
so i gotta finish up this side and get the passenger side done. still got some other work lined up, like the rear end. ive only got about 3 parts that cost sub 150$ then i can focus on the engine. im a bit ahead of schedule financially wise, but i still have a ton of work that i can do without buying anything.
i made a good amount of money for my birthday and christmas, so i went to town on the carpart shopping.
the following is what ive ordered:
samberg radiator kit. this thing is sweet, its custom to the v8 rx7 and makes everything all one clean unit:
Radiator, Ford Taurus fan, upper and lower hoses, surge tank kit, radiator shroud and k&n carbon fiber cold air intake. $1168.00
(not my pics, has not arrived yet)
installed
and this pretty clean howe expansion tank $110
i also got a custom drive shaft, theres no pic available, and a modified willwood brake master cylinder $75
cant wait for the parts to come in! but i gotta get the work that i have remaining out of the way. its piling up pretty fast. its pretty much ready for the engine and ready to go once everything comes in and gets installed. the only thing i need is tires. this phase of the void is starting to close up and its getting exciting!
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damn i wanted to order some parts but all the custom shops are closed today, i hope it wont be all week, urgh
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sweet brake master!
and yea for assembly time!
-Tim B
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some stuff arrived today!
its the brake master cylinder and ss lines, fun stuff!
im not sure how to mate the master in just yet, so i worked on getting the front calipers on
[IMGhttp://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs190.snc3/19757_1216035518702_1163263826_30550275_7936216_n. jpg[/IMG]
now i gotta run off and find out the shipping status of the other, more expensive items, and find out how to get this master on
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thanks!
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wow, this this is beautiful!!
Zo6 K&N short ram cold air intake built right in, oh my!! soo huge!
beautiful polished shroud
perfect weave, girthy opening
awesome rear shroud, thin mount fan. i can still stick the AC condenser between the fan and the radiator and itll mount flush
all that and still V mounted...very nice! /borat
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Slick set up! me likey
-Tim B
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damn man, don't let it eat your phone!!
that does look AWESOME though, honestly.
I own this joint!
gear list.
yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery, today is a gift, that's why it's called the present.
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OM NOM NOM!!
i finally finished the work under the hood. ive got to slap on the tires and finish up the rear end. not too much work there. the engine is around the corner so to speak. gotta get my taxes in.
finished the brake and cluth master cylinder install. here the clutch compairo
side angle for the vmount rad. gotta clean up the wiring with a little tape and sleeving. headlights rewired and installed. motors work perfectly
a pic of the intake/shroud installed. looks great fits perfect
cleaned it up and threw a blanket over it. not coming off untill the engine arrives
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started on the rear
its pretty dirty, the diff pinion seal must be torn. got a lot of cleaning up to do
dropped the entire rear cradle easily. cleaning and bushings should be a ton easier now. but i dont know if i can get it all in in one piece lol
its not too late to throw a cobra solid rear end in! must not stray off the plan =/
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you don't want a solid axle, you want negative camber!
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yea independent rear is def better for handling which is what i want. but 0 wheel hop and 800tq is pretty sweet too
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i just ordered my c6 corvette!! still waiting to find out when it will be shipped!
ls2 goodness!
excited would be an under statementSix month warranty
2005 corvette c6 Package
28000 miles
Manual TREMEC 6 Speed Transmission
ECM and factory Engine Wiring Harness
400 Horsepower
Included:
All belt driven accessories such as A/c Compressor, Power Steering Pump, Alternator
Starter
Exhaust manifolds
All Sensors on Engine
MAF Sensor and plumbing to MAF
Complete from fuel injection to oil pan!!
This engine and transmission runs excellent and is perfect for streetrod project or replacement. The LS2 is an all aluminum 6.0 Liter engine that was removed from a corvette vehicle. The corvette has excellent accessory placement making it a great choice for hot rod applications. This is THE MUST HAVE engine!! These engines have proven themselves extremely versitile and reliable in both Corvette and F-Body platforms. vehicle was side impacted. carfax, VIN, and six month warranty from date of purchase included.
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awesome! can't wait for this to be finished.
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Although I HATE the idea of a Domestic powerplant in my beloved FD, I can certainly understand the reasoning, and applaud your work sir.
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thanks man! yea im painting it. not decided on color yet. jet black, some shade of white, or some dark metallic grey
me too, lol
thanks, i still love the rotary and respect anyone that can deal with it. i usually get flamed really really, really bad from rotary enthusiasts, thanks for being understanding =)
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I have always loved RX7's. You'res is no exception
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thanks for the kind words =)
so yeah, you know you're a shoe head when your car looks like this, and you can still find a pair of dunks in your closet to match it
note to selfull axles off diff BEFORE removing the bushings off the subframe. the motor comes on Wed, i wanted to be able to drop it in next weekend but its not looking like it will happen. the diff is leaking oil so i gotta replace the pinion seals. going to inspect the rest of the diff while im at it
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